I know some of you were waiting for this pattern to be posted in your language, ever since I published the Spanish version. I finally found some time, but I decided that making it into a PDF would have taken me ages, specially right now that I'm working in five hundred and a half projects. But here it is. Crochet Pattern for Beginners, designed by Anhelo Escalante.
Slippers for guys, American English version.
Shoe size: 9USA / 27MX / 42.5EUR / 8.5UK
This is a photo tutorial with written instructions. Before starting please read all the details about the item to be worked: materials, abbreviations, etc. Photos in this pattern are copyrighted, you are NOT allowed under ANY circumstances to use them for ANY purpouse. Although, this pattern is public domain, you can share it with the world, sell your items made with help of it, but please keep in mind that if you decide to share it with your world, you must link to my blog. So, DO NOT copy-paste. I don't have to explain why.
Stitches you'll work
It's necessary for you to know how to work these stitches: Chain, Slip Stitch, Single Crochet and Double Crochet. You will need to start the project with a Magic Circle (or Magic Ring) so I'm posting a video tutorial in case you have trouble understanding.
SlSt Slip Stitch
SC Single Crochet
DC Double Crochet
R Round (half of this pattern is worked in rounds) or Row.
Start with a Magic Loop
Ch2 (are not equivalent of a DC here and throughout)
R1: 8DC in the loop. Cinch it and join with a SlSt into top of first DC. Ch2
R2: Work 2DC in same St and every St around, joining with a SlSt into top of the first DC. Total Stitches: 16. Ch2:
R3: *1DC, 2DC in same St*. Repeat from * to * all around. Join with a SlSt into top of first DC. Total Stitches: 24. Ch2.
R4: *2DC, 2DC in same St*. Repeat from * to * all around. Join with a SlSt into top of first DC. Total Stitches: 32. Ch2.
R5-R6: 1DC in each St around, join with a SlSt into top of first DC. Total Stitches: 32. Ch2.
This photo shows how it's supposed to look after working R5. I suggest you that, from now on, measure that your work covers the toes of the person you're working this for (if it's possible).
Note: Here's where you can add one or two more rounds to come with a bigger shoe size. Doing this only makes the work longer from tip of toe to heel. If you want to make it wider, in Round 6 work 16DC, 2DC in same St, 15DC, 2DC in same St. This change should get you a total of 34 stitches.
R7: (First decrease) 14DC, 2DC together (*see tutorial for decreasing below), 14DC, 2DC together. Join with a SlSt into top of first DC. Total of Stitches: 30 (or 32 if you increased for size, please remember that if you did this, you must always count your stitches ahead). Ch2.
R8: 1DC in each St around, join with SlSt into top of first DC. Same amount of total stitches.
R9: (Second decrease) 13DC, 2DC together, 13DC, 2DC together. Join with SlSt into top of first DC. Total Stitches (-2) 28. Ch2.
R10, 11, 12: 1DC in each St around, join with SlSt into top of first DC. Same amount of total stitches. Ch2.
Note: From now on, we no longer work in rounds but rows, meaning that at the end of each row we turn our work.
R13: 20DC, Ch2, turn.
R14 to 18: Repeat R13.
R19: 8DC, (decrease) 2DC together, 2DC together again, 8DC.
Seam up the heel by putting the right sides together and SlSt from the top down to the bottom of the heel.
Your work should look like this:
Now we need to cinch the slippers a little bit around the foot. We'll work in SC. Starting to the left, from the back center of the heel.
R20: Ch1, work 1SC in the next (aprox) 12 St (we are working in spaces, they're not very defined stitches but hey, that's what we have). The last space, the 13th, is the one that connects the corner. There we will work a decrease: 3SC together.
In the first picture I show you the last space that connects with the corner. The second picture shows how to do the 3SC in one = together.
1. Hook thru the loop, yarn over and pull it through, you have two loops.
2. Hook thru next loop, yarn over and pull it through that loop only, you have three loops.
3. Hook thru next loop, yarn over and pull it through that loop only, you have four loops.
4. Yarn over and pull it through the 4 loops.
Should look like this:
Work 5SC. Now you get to the next corner, work a decrease again, 3SC together. Keep working SC all around until you get to the back center of the heel and join with a SlSt into top of first SC. Ch1.
R21: Decrease by working 2SC together, 1SC into each St all the way to the corner again, where you work again 3SC together, work 3SC, 3SC together in corner, 9SC, 2SC together, join with SlSt into top of first SC. Should loook like this:
If desirable add an extra row with a different color:
Ch1, work 1SC all around and finish joining with a SlSt and faten off. Wave in loose ends.
Note: for color B I used a hook 1/2 mm smaller, and a thinner yarn, but this is certainly up to you.